It's easy to believe in the ancient Greek gods when one hears the thunder rolling across the hills of the Greek islands. Or to understand the volitility of modern Greek politics when wandering the streets of Athens, looking at the political graffiti and posters. But the sheer beauty of the country, its people, arts and archeology imbeds itself in the traveler's soul. Long after leaving Greece the memories flood back at the slightest instigation: the smell of flowers or feta; the sound of goats' bells or fishing boat motors; the sight of white clouds in the shapes of castles, temples and statues.